Gold

“Under-karated” jewellery refers to pieces that have a lower gold content than advertised. This discrepancy occurs when too much of other metals are mixed with gold. These metals are added either to reduce costs by lowering the percentage of gold, or to achieve various gold hues like white or rose gold, aside from the natural yellow. In South Africa, any jewellery that claims to be gold must be at least 9 karats, meaning it should contain at least 37.5% gold. Anything below this is considered “under-karated” by South African standards.

For consumers, it’s important to note that under-karated gold jewellery can tarnish more quickly. This is because the additional metals in the alloy, used to replace gold, are often more susceptible to corrosion and wear. This not only affects the appearance and longevity of the jewellery but also means that it does not hold the same value as higher karat gold. When buying gold jewellery, always ensure it meets the minimum karat standard and be wary of deals that seem too good to be true, as they may involve under-karated gold.

In South Africa, 9K gold is the minimum karat permitted for jewellery, meaning it comprises at least 37.5% gold, with the rest being other metals like copper, silver, or zinc. This mix not only makes it more affordable but also harder than higher karat golds such as 14K, 18K, 22K, and 24K. The term “harder” in this context refers to its resistance to being scratched or bent by everyday use. However, it’s crucial to understand that harder does not necessarily mean stronger.

While 9K gold is more resistant to scratches due to its lower gold content and higher proportion of harder alloy metals, it can also be more brittle. This brittleness means that rather than bending, as might be the case with softer, higher-karat gold, 9K gold jewellery can break when subjected to force or impact. For instance, the prongs in a 9K gold ring might snap off if knocked hard, rather than bending or deforming.

Jewellery made from 9K gold is typically stamped with marks such as “9K,” “375,” “9kt,” or “9KP” to indicate its purity. The “375” stamp refers to the fact that the jewellery contains 375 parts gold per thousand parts of material, which is equivalent to 37.5% gold. These stamps are a guarantee of the gold content and help consumers identify genuine 9K gold items. This karat is the most commonly used in jewellery in South Africa due to its affordability and durability, making it a popular choice among consumers looking for gold jewellery at a lower price point.

In South Africa, while 14K gold is widely appreciated for its durability and affordability, it is predominantly used for crafting rose gold jewellery rather than other gold colours like yellow or white gold. This preference stems from the distinct and appealing pinkish hue that rose gold achieves, which is due to the higher copper content in the alloy mix typical of 14K rose gold.

The stamps for 14K gold jewellery, such as “14K,” “14kt,” “585,” or “14KP,” indicate the gold purity. The “585” specifically denotes that the jewellery is made up of 58.5% gold. Although 14K gold can be used for yellow and white gold jewellery, in South Africa, its usage is exceptionally favoured in rose gold variations. This is because the durability and the unique colour of 14K rose gold align well with consumer preferences and styles in the region, making it a popular and practical choice for jewellery that stands out both in appearance and longevity.

18K gold is composed of 75% pure gold, with the remaining 25% consisting of other metals such as copper, silver, or zinc. This higher proportion of gold gives 18K jewellery a richer, deeper colour and a softer texture compared to lower karat golds like 9K. In South Africa, 18K gold is commonly marked with stamps such as “18K,” “18kt,” or “750,” where “750” indicates that the jewellery contains 750 parts gold per thousand, or 75% gold.

Although 18K gold is softer than 9K gold, this softness does not imply lower quality. In fact, the softness of 18K gold can be advantageous. It allows for more flexibility in the jewellery’s design and handling. In practical terms, this means that if 18K gold jewellery, such as a ring, receives a blow, the prongs holding gemstones are more likely to bend rather than break. This bending can prevent loss of gemstones and often allows for easier and less costly repairs compared to the more brittle, lower karat gold, where prongs might snap off and require more complex restoration.

Despite its softness, which makes it more prone to bending and shaping under pressure, 18K gold remains a preferred choice for many. Its malleability makes it easier to work with for jewellers, allowing for the creation of intricate and delicate designs that might not be as feasible with harder, lower karat gold. Additionally, because it is easier to manipulate and repair, many consider 18K gold an ideal choice for high-quality, luxurious jewellery.

In South Africa, 18K gold ranks as the second most popular karat for gold jewellery, favoured for its beautiful, vibrant colour and its practical balance between purity and durability. This makes it a top choice for both everyday jewellery and more exquisite, special occasion pieces.

22K gold is comprised of approximately 91.6% pure gold, with the remainder being made up of other metals such as copper or silver. This high gold content gives 22K gold jewellery a deep, rich yellow colour and a soft, pliable texture. In South Africa, 22K gold is marked with stamps like “22K,” “22kt,” or “916,” indicating that the jewellery contains 916 parts gold per thousand, or 91.6% gold.

While 22K gold is highly valued for its purity and vibrant colour, it is relatively uncommon in South Africa compared to other parts of the world, such as South Asia or the Middle East, where it is more popular. In South Africa, 22K gold is often associated with religious or traditional jewellery, reflecting its cultural significance and traditional use in various ceremonial and spiritual contexts.

Due to its softness, 22K gold is most suitable for yellow gold jewellery. The high gold content makes it less ideal for alloying into other colours, such as white or rose gold, which require significant amounts of other metals to achieve their colour. The softness of 22K gold means it is more prone to scratching, bending, and deformation, making it less ideal for jewellery that requires high durability or for pieces that are worn daily.

In summary, 22K gold in South Africa is a specialized choice, often reserved for specific types of jewelry that benefit from its purity and exceptional yellow color. Its use reflects a preference for traditional styles and religious significance rather than everyday wear.

24K gold represents the highest purity level in gold jewellery, being 100% pure gold without any added alloys. This exceptional purity gives 24K gold its distinctive deep, rich yellow colour. In South Africa, jewellery made from 24K gold is marked with stamps like “24K,” “24kt,” or “999,” indicating that the gold content is virtually 100% or 999 parts per thousand.

Due to its purity, 24K gold is extremely soft and malleable. This characteristic makes it less suitable for everyday jewellery that may be subject to bumps and scratches, as it is very prone to bending, denting, and scratching. For this reason, 24K gold is uncommon in South Africa for general jewellery purposes. Instead, it is often reserved for religious or ceremonial jewellery, where its purity has symbolic significance, and the pieces are worn on special occasions or kept as investments or heirlooms.

24K gold is used exclusively to create yellow gold jewellery. Because there are no alloys mixed with the gold, it is not possible to produce 24K gold in colours like white or rose gold, which require the addition of other metals to achieve their colours. The use of 24K gold is generally limited to contexts where its purity is especially valued, such as in certain cultural or religious artifacts.

In South Africa, as in many parts of the world, 24K gold holds a place of distinction due to its purity but is typically selected more for its investment value and cultural significance than for its practicality as wearable jewellery.

“Over-karated” refers to a situation where a piece of jewellery contains more gold content than what is indicated by its karat stamp. This is less common than “under-karated” jewellery, where the gold content is less than stated. The term “karat” itself is a measure of the purity of gold, with pure gold being 24 karats, indicating that it is 100% gold with no alloy metals.

In the case of over-karated jewellery, the item has a higher percentage of gold than what is stamped or marketed. For example, a ring stamped as 18K, which should ideally contain 75% gold, may actually contain a higher percentage like 80% gold. This situation is unusual because it generally results in a higher cost of production for the jeweller without a corresponding increase in price, making it economically disadvantageous.

Over-karated jewellery might occur due to errors in the alloying process where the proportions of gold to other metals are not accurately controlled. However, because such errors involve the use of more expensive materials (gold) than planned, they are not typically intentional.

For consumers, while purchasing over-karated jewelry might seem like receiving more value, it can affect the durability and desired characteristics of the piece. For example, higher karat gold is softer and more prone to wear and damage. Thus, precise karat levels are not just about economic value but also about achieving the right balance of properties for durability, colour, and workability.